summer vacay.

i just returned from our (mostly) annual family vacation to lake tahoe. it had all the ubiquitous ingredients of a summer holiday: mornings spent hiking in the mountains, afternoons digging our toes into the crusty sand next to the lake and evenings of early dinners and a movie.

my husband's parents purchased a timeshare when they were alive and now their children and grandchildren enjoy a week of together time each year. i never had family vacations growing up, so when we first started dating, it was a novel idea and it was inspiring to see that families actually spend time together like that. i have to admit though that as i am growing older, i am a little resistant to the idea. i want a vacation for me, doing what i want to do (dammit!).

as luck would have it, i got the best of both worlds. i got my hikes in almost every morning, visited a great farmers' market (and a not-so-great one), frequented local, independent grocery stores, found a natural foods restaurant that had fresh wheatgrass (though there is a jamba juice in town now) and picked-up an item that i had just put on my wish list from a used book store. we even found a vegan-friendly restaurant that the entire omnivorous family loved.

isn't it funny how when you ask for something and (not to be too new-agey) express "intent," it just might work out that way?

we loved our trip there so much that we're hoping to spend all of next summer there. unfortunately, our camera broke right before we left, so i have only photos i've gathered from other sources.

i have recommendations on lounging, hiking, biking, farmers' markets and eating after the jump.

happy travels!

beach
round hill pines
our "base camp" for all sunning activities. this is an established area, with restaurant, snack bar, full bar, restrooms and water sports rentals (jet skis, parasailing, kayaks and paddleboats). there is also a pool, though we've never used it. makes sense since the average water temperature during august is between 65 and 70 degrees. make sure to lather on the sunscreen (of course you knew that) and bring an umbrella or rent a canopy: the sun is intense! parking is 7 bucks for the day.

hiking
both my better half and i are novice hikers and therefore, we did a few short hikes throughout the trip. next year, we'll venture out on some half-day hikes when we have the proper equipment and planning.

fallen leaf lake
we hiked the glen alpine trail and checked out the old glen alpine springs resort. it was built in 1884 and closed in 1967, though it appears that some of the cabins can be rented and there are community functions there. some of the structures were designed by bernard maybeck, who created the palace of fine arts in san francisco. the best thing about this brief hike were the waterfalls we encountered. the trail was very crowded since it is the main artery to the desolation wilderness area. the road out to the trailhead is a little sketchy one-lane road, so be careful you don't drive off as you're looking at the cabins, docks and boats. (have your passenger) look for the cute teeny non-denominational st. francis of the mountains church (it would be an incredible wedding location). closer to the trailhead at the marina is a store in case you need anything. there is also a campground closer to the highway.
difficulty: moderate, due to incline and the rocky trail.

spooner lake
this "hike" on the east shore was really more of a walk around a lake (artificially-created). we intended to hike the marlette trail, but we didn't have the time or right equipment. this is the perfect family spot. the park from which the trails begin is clean with picnic tables, a bike rental facility and real restrooms. we were thinking it would be an excellent choice for those who aren't really "outdoorsy." very accessible. around the lake, educations signs were placed with information about the habitat and all its critters. my favorite areas were the meadows, with the sweet scent of lemon and the aspen grove, since that is my favorite tree. the "shhhhhhhhhhhh" of the leaves was mesmerizing and i didn't want to leave. i prefer a more rustic hike and was disappointed that i could still hear the highway traffic along part of the trail. i would love to go back during winter and cross-country ski.
difficulty: easy.

tahoe rim trail
this impromptu hike made my better half mad at me because it was impromptu. he felt we didn't have the right stuff for a hike, but we just hiked part of it near brockway summit, since the whole trail wraps around the lake and totals 165 miles. the trail was well-kept though quite rocky. my better half twisted his ankle which added to the disagreeable tone of our "adventure." there were a few meadows along the way, but mostly, it was a bit dark with lots of trees overhead. check out their well-designed web site for more information, including how to "do the loop in 2006" in eight weeks (well, i suppose it might be too late now. 2007?).
difficulty: easy to moderate, due to incline and the rocky trail. (only applies to this small area.)

biking
rent a bike and ride along the south lake tahoe bike path. once you get off the highway, it's a very easy ride the whole family can enjoy. i loved looking at the cabins and the gigantic meadow we passed by. afterward, grab lunch at freshies or sprouts. (i had "ew, someone else's sweaty head was in here" issues with the rented bike helmet, but i survived.)

eating
alpina café
822 emerald bay road, near the "y"
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.541.7449
- coffee, pastries, soups, sandwiches and bagels, open from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily
this was my favorite coffee shop in town. it's located in a little old cottage that oozes comfort and warmth, not commercialism. sit outside at one of the tables and enjoy the garden and fountain (try to ignore the highway traffic, ok?). bonus: free wireless! they offer four different loose leaf chai teas from edelweiss tea of lake tahoe: black, green, oregon and organic (i think). i had the black chai with soy and it was fantastic (about 3). my better half tried a couple of different coffee drinks (they use alpen sierra coffee of lake tahoe) and didn't have as much luck though. he had a mocha he dubbed "mocha-less" (about 3) and the next visit tried an iced coffee that wasn't so great (about 3).

el caballo negro
2244 lake tahoe blvd. at tahoe keys blvd.
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.542.2257
- mexican
-breakfast, lunch + dinner, opens at 9:00 a.m.
this modest restaurant is family-run (which i love) and the real deal: flautas, sopes (their specialty), tamales (pork, chicken or rajas con queso), chorizo and eggs, chilaquiles, homemade flan and pozole, menudo and caldo de res on weekends. meat choices are beef, chicken, lengua (tongue), shredded pork, pastor (marinated pork) and carnitas. when we asked for spicier salsa, we heard them making salsa verde in the kitchen just for us. truly, it was a highlight of the meal. el caballo negro also serves mexican sodas (jarritos, sangria, sidral and mexican coke) and aguas de fruta. i ordered a green salad, which was off the menu, and was presented with a lovely plate of lettuce, flavorful tomato, sliced onion, lime wedges and avocado slices, which were fanned delicately. i poured on the salsa verde and it was fantastic. it is rare to find such artful, tasty accommodation in most restaurants.

freshies
3300 lake tahoe blvd. in the lakeview plaza
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.542.3630
- island
- lunch + dinner, opens at 11:30 a.m.
this "island style" restaurant has an upstairs patio that overlooks the lake. the dining room, while small, is pleasant enough, but try to sit outside if you can. i was surprised to find organic, vegan-friendly food that was accessible to everyone. i enjoyed the east indian spinach salad (curried tofu, green apples, pickled onions, tomatoes and mangos - dressing tasted bottled though) and the rest of the group seemed to find the fish tacos (grilled, fried, blackened or jamaican jerk with cabbage, tomatoes, cheese and spicy sauce, or instead of fish, tofu or tempeh) and sandwiches winners. freshies serves beer and cider and had a vegan dessert option (chocolate mousse, i believe) from their menu that changes. the food and service here was so great that we ate here twice. (great used bookstore inside the lakeview plaza, too! i picked up three books for about 7, including  "diet for a small planet" by frances moore lappé).

hunan garden
900 emerald bay road, near the "y"
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.544.5868
- chinese
- lunch + dinner, opens at 11:30 a.m.
called a "secret local spot" by one of our fellow dining patrons who lives in the area, we quickly discovered why. usually a buffet is a terrifying experience, but this one during lunch (from 11:30 to 2:30) was actually quite good according to my better half. he enjoyed the egg flower soup, chow mein, fresh fruit and dim sum items. i liked that they had condiments like spicy soy sauce and the ubiquitous chili paste out and ready. i ordered off the menu and the waiter didn't make me feel like i was from another planet. spicy tofu with vegetables turned out to be just what i was looking for: balanced texture from the tofu and veggies and balanced flavor from just the right amount of heat. i rounded out my meal with a plate of watermelon and cantaloupe that was surprisingly sweet and flavorful. service was courteous and attentive. no msg is used at the restaurant.

the naked fish
3940 lake tahoe blvd., no. 3, at pioneer trail
south lake tahoe, calif.
- japanese
- dinner
this restaurant is just around the corner from the now-gentrified stateline area and in the same center as alpen sierra coffee company (see below). we were pleasantly surprised when we stumbled upon their sushi happy hour (weekdays, 4:00 - 6:00, i think). hand rolls were just 2.50 each and weren't skimpy either. the environment is nothing special, but the food is pretty good for being so far from the sea (i neglected to ask if they use local fish from the tahoe area). my better half enjoyed the salmon lomi lomi hand roll the most (salmon with sesame oil), but also was impressed with their albacore and crunchy rolls. i had miso soup (vegan), seaweed salad (disappointing: same thing available at a supermarket) and i felt like having a hand roll, so i asked if the chef could come up with a vegan version — maybe with enoki mushrooms or something? i think this threw him since the server had to come back to ask me if i wanted tofu and avocado (no thank you, not exciting). after that, i was brought a tofu and enoki mushroom hand roll. that was it. no creativity, so he lost points in my mind. but then, again, i do realize i'm really picky. the service was a bit inefficient and unsophisticated, but we chalked it up to the location and maybe the fact that our server's boyfriend was in the restaurant at the time. nigiri sushi items of note include:

• garlic albacore
• mermaid roll (yellow tail and papaya)
• island roll (spicy tuna and cucumber topped with avocado and macadamia nuts)
• green acres (asparagus, cucumber and avocado topped with shiso leaves and green onion —  hey, why didn't i get that?).

you can substitute soy paper for 1 per roll. the restaurant also serves entrees for those less adventurous in your party, like their teriyaki dinner (beef, chicken or tofu glazed with teriyaki, served with rice and seasonal vegetables — spicy version available, too) and sesame crusted halibut (pan-seared with miso glaze, served with mixed greens and asparagus). freshly-made wasabi or specialty soy sauce for 1. they have a lengthy list of sake, too (of which i had too much).

new moon natural foods
505 west lake blvd, at the 89 "y"
tahoe city, calif.
530.583.7426
- natural foods market
you know i love frequenting the small independent stores whenever possible and here i was able to find fresh tofu, bulk shoyu sauce and spices, some veggies prior to my visit to the farmers' market, soy milk and a healing calendula cream by arbordoun's for my chapped lips (it's really made for the skin, but i used it anyway). most of the items i wanted were a little on the expensive side (basket of figs, 6 and fresh garlic, 4.95/pound, seventh generation laundry detergent, around 7 and wildwood marinated tofu — that my brother-in-law thought was gouda so i just had to purchase more — around 5), but i would still frequent this charming little shop.

sprouts natural foods cafe
3123 harrison avenue at highway 50
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.541.6969
- american
- breakfast, lunch + dinner
i didn't have the opportunity to eat here, only get my daily shot of wheatgrass. it's not a vegetarian restaurant, though the name seems to indicate it would be. there are many veggie items, but also lots of meat options on the menu, too. they also have smoothies, vegetable and fruit juices. i liked their juice combinations and remember seeing one that had a spicy element to it which appealed to me. this would be a good place to buy your picnic lunch and take it with you. it was busy with a long line and wait.

south lake tahoe certified farmers' market
june 6, 2006 - october 10, 2006
tuesday, 8:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m.
american legion hall parking lot
2647 south lake tahoe blvd. (hwy 50)
south lake tahoe, calif.
- farmers' market
after mistakenly visiting the market on the complete opposite shore (see below), this bustling market was exactly what i wanted: alive with the spirit of community. for me, this is what markets should be. it had a good amount of vendors (i'd say 30-ish) with a variety of offerings.  of note: fresh applewood for your smoker and an entire booth devoted to iris bulbs. our favorite non-ag vendor had to be dedrick's main street cheese of placerville. we purchased gifts for our house- and dogsitters: a piece of dry salame and specialty crackers with suggested cheese pairings on the label. dedrick's also brings a wide array of fresh cheeses, including fresh mozzarella and raw-milk parmesan, which i really wanted to buy but didn't for some reason. (do you do that, too?) the market also had local honey, candy, flowers, soap and hand-carved bowls and trays made from gourds, which, when i write that, sound cheesy, but they were quite attractive. i love that market.

not recommended
alpen sierra coffee company
3940 lake tahoe blvd., suite 1
south lake tahoe, calif.
530.544.7740
- coffee
i had high hopes for this place and i really wanted to like it, but when we went in, we were struck with how non-local it appeared. it was as if it was trying to be a big chain. according to their site "100 specialty food establishments" in the region serve their coffee. i tried their black chai and it was just ok. i had asked for a chai tea bag, but was served their pre-mixed chai which, though the representative said was unsweetened, tasted too sweet for me. my better half ordered a coffee with a shot of espresso, which they dub a "hammerhead" though we didn't know that, so it sat on the counter until we asked about it. apparently, they serve the shot then the customer serves up the coffee from the carafes that are located next to the counter. it wasn't a winner. my better half has a fondness for bear claws, but the one he ate left a lot to be desired. to me, it looked like something we could get at the supermarket. apparently, it tasted that way, too since most of it ended up staying in the bag in which it came. all this seemed pricey at  9 bucks. free wireless and also a mac in case you're without.

kings beach certified farmers' market
june - october
tuesday, 8:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m.
i hesitate to dub *any* farmers' market "not recommended," but compared with the market at south lake tahoe on the same day, this one just doesn't cut it. first, 7 dollars to park (though there was ample street parking). next, too few vendors. finally, high prices. it was a sad little market.

photo credits: first accommodations  .  tahoecountry.com  .  tahoe rim trail association  .  florian s  .  ryan dyer  . timeshare adventures  .  john's photos to share  .  expedia.com  .  lake tahoe visitors authority